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Inside the Hermès Leather Workshop
http://iwmagazine.com https://twitter.com/iWMagazine https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine Hermès is a superlative representation of savoir-faire in a variety of categories, from leather and silk to ready-to-wear and timepieces, all of which exude a high level of detail and skilled craftsmanship. The success of Hermès today originated in 1837 when Thierry Hermès, the founder, established a shop for equestrian saddles and harnesses in Paris. Through the generations Hermès has grown to become a leading luxury brand with expertise in fine leather and many other products—including watches. In 1912, Émile Hermès, son of Thierry, designed the first-ever Hermés wristwatch for his daughter Jacqueline. He created the "porte-oignon" system to hold a pocket watch securely within a leather strap, and the Hermès watch was born. Luc Perramond, CEO of La Montre Hermès, the watch division of the House of Hermès, explains the link between the past and the present at La Montre Hermès.
NOMOS Glashütte's Metro Highlights New In-House Movement
http://iwmagazine.com Within the last three years NOMOS Glashütte has grown exponentially, having doubled its employees and turnover after award-winning timepieces like the Ahoi and Lambada.. Its momentum continues with the introduction of its first in-house swing system escapement, the DUW 4401, placed in the all-new Metro model. The NOMOS Glashütte METRO Famed Berlin designer Mark Braun created the stylish and clean design of the Metro watch for NOMOS Glashütte. The timepiece captures Braun's vision with a a dial featuring a colored power reserve indicator display with mint green accents and tapered ends pointing to the dot markers along the edge of the dial. It is complimented by the red hand of the small seconds at 6 o'clock just above the date feature. Through the sapphire case back, one can view the new NOMOS Glashütte swing system escapement, identifiable by its blue balance spring. The swing escapement mechanism is known for its durability and includes a pallet and escape wheel insuring its longevity. This part was produced in the NOMOS Glashütte headquarters located in Glashütte, Germany in a refurbished train station in Glashütte, Germany. The in-house construction of the Metro model coupled with its clean aesthetic design by Braun makes it the perfect timepiece for the chic and urban watch wearer. Interesting fact: Braun is located down the street to Berlinerblau, the in-house creative agency responsible for NOMOS Glashütte's brand management to watch design for the last ten years.
Inside the TAG Heuer Monaco V4
In 2004, TAG Heuer unveiled the V4 concept, an innovative belt driven movement echoing a Formula One engine that impressed watch aficianados and racing fanatics alike. This year, TAG Heuer presented the latest evolution of the V4, the Monaco V4 Tourbillon. Entirely hand-crafted in TAG Heuer’s Haute Atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the mechanism is limited to 50 pieces and is complete with 214 components and boasts 46 jewels. The movement and tourbillon are powered by four laser-cut polymer belts. The thinnest belt is about the size of a human hair and measures a mere 0.07 millimeters. Two of the notched belts connect the mainspring barrels to the gear train and are reinforced with an internal steel wire. They are mounted on ball bearings in a parallel incline at 13 degrees. The dial side of the watch offers a sleek view through a beveled sapphire crystal to the tourbillon at 9 o’clock coupled with two V-shaped bridges together. Regulating the speed of the watch is a unique tourbillon arrangement that incorporates a micro-belt into the tourbillon cage, thus eliminating backlash. Both the bridges and main plate are finished with a black DLC coating while the main plate features a hand-polished motif of the Côtes de Genève. The case shape reflects the popular TAG Heuer Monaco watch made popular by Steve McQueen, though, in the V4 Tourbillon the case is made of grade 5, polished titanium with a black titanium carbide coating and measures 41 millimeters square. The caseback of the watch is an impressive view with the center highlighting an automatic linear rewinding system made of tungsten that slides on the double rack rail, essentially replacing a typical rotor. Flanked on either side of the form are two barrels guided by micro ball bearings providing a greater resemblance of a Formula One engine. iW Magazine: http://iwmagazine.com/2014/09/29/inside-the-tag-heuer-monaco-v4-interactive-video/ Instagram: http://instagram.com/iwmagazine Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine Twitter: https://twitter.com/iwmagazine Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/iwmagazine/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/iWmag
NOMOS Presents a New Movement
A look at NOMOS Glashütte's history in timepieces and its newest addition. Director Merlin Schwertner shows us the Minimatic's new ultra-thin movement.
CEO of Alpina Guido Benedini Discusses the Year of the Dive Watch
We sat down with Guido Benedini to talk about Alpina's new dive models.
Luminox- Tried and True
https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine https://twitter.com/iWMagazine Nick North, a retired Chief Petty Officer, led the initial search to find a watch that was virtually indestructible and reliable against the extremes the U.S. Navy SEALs face. Luminox was the only company with a watch to meet the challenging standards. North sat down with iW recently to explain how this relationship between Luminox and the Navy SEALs started as well why Luminox watches have been so useful to the military. The California-based watch company for nearly twenty years has been the ideal companions for those in the elite forces such as U.S. Navy SEALs. Today, the Luminox ANU 4200 Series watch is approved and preferred by the U. S. Navy SEALs. This 45 mm watch features a Swiss made Ronda quartz movement with a battery life of approximately ten years. The ANU’s stainless steel case is coated with black PVD and is water resistant up to 200 meters/66o feet. It has self-powered luminescence that is 100x brighter than most other luminous watches, providing superior readability under low light conditions and lasting more than twenty-five years. For use while diving, the watch has a unidirectional bezel and a screw-down crown with crown protection. With this set of features, it’s no wonder Luminox models are so often found on the wrists of U.S. Navy SEALs and other elite forces.
RGM and the American-Made Timepiece
www.iwmagazine.com Earlier this year, iW took a road trip to Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, to sit down with RGM namesake and founder, Roland G. Murphy. Here, Murphy discussed American watchmaking and RGM's efforts to keep the art of fully in-house manufacturing alive. Mount Joy is a small borough on the outskirts of Lancaster, in the heart of the Pennsylvanian Dutch Country. With the city growing smaller behind us, the urban landscape gave way to pastures and silos. Rock walls built before the Declaration of independence was drafted, peppered the fields. An old bank came into view as the GPS announced we'd reached our destination. Emblazoned on the front doors, the RGM logo reflected the snow littered across the sidewalk. For more than twenty years, RGM has produced bespoke timepieces from the remodeled Mount Joy landmark. Here, modern technology and tools from watchmaking past meet, and artisans take extra care in creating each part of an RGM timepiece, from the gears in a movement to the polish of a case. Murphy's vast knowledge of American watchmaking history, especially that of several manufacturers once located in Lancaster, influences his own creations. From chronographs to tourbillons, RGM's range of creativity spans from intricate guilloche work to highly technical mechanics. Murphy's passion for timekeeping is also found in his significant collection kept right inside the bank-- behind the still-standing vault door, that is. ]The collection includes military and nautical clocks as well as pocket watches from the height of the industrial revolution. As iW celebrates its 25th anniversary with what we call "The Year of the Collector," Murphy's dedication to the art of American-made watchmaking stands as a collection of knowledge unparalleled and well worth sharing.
Interview: Ulrich Herzog on the Oris History, Pilots and Divers
iW spoke to Oris CEO, Ulrich W. Herzog about his promise to make ‘real watches for real people’ and upcoming releases from the company.
Oris Celebrates 110 Years
http://www.iwmagazine.com Over the last 110 years Oris has delivered exceptional quality watches with excellent value and has accomplished mechanical milestones along the way. The company was founded in the small Swiss town of Hölstein in 1904 by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. The two watchmakers named their company Oris after a stream near the factory. Cattin and Christian maintained the evolving manufacture while keeping focus on their original values; to build the best possible watches at the best possible price. iW recently had the chance to meet with Executive Director and driving force behind the brand, Ulrich Herzog. Here he discussed many accomplishments of Oris over the last 110 years. The most recent accomplishment is the Calibre 110, aptly named for the 110th Anniversary of Oris.
Part I: Why Do You Wear a Watch?
Part 1 of our series where CEOs and executives in the watch industry explain why they wear a watch. Full story: http://bit.ly/1OMrmPT
Hands-On Seiko Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver 200M SBGA031
Seiko's take on the dive watch combines equal measures of fidelity to the class standards and unorthodox additions distinctive of the Grand Seiko tradition. With a 200-meter rated depth, titanium construction, and Seiko's signature Spring Drive movement technology, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver 200M offers an impressive alternative to the Swiss dive segment stalwarts. Seiko launched the titanium SBGA031 and its stainless steel SBGA029 counterpart at Baselworld 2012. The titanium utility watch attacked the saturated dive watch market with a compelling tandem of unique technology and unarguable utility. Seiko equips the Spring Drive Diver with an impressive array of useful functions that render it equally compelling to SCUBA divers and desk divers alike. The bracelet and clasp are nothing if not over-engineered. A deployant clasp matches the standards for this class of watch, but it exceeds them in surprising fashion by matching a twin-trigger clasp release with a robust clamshell lock for absolute security and freedom from accidental opening. Once open, a second trigger releases the incremental dive extension: well over 20mm of extra length deploys for easy fitment over a dive suit or - more likely - a thick winter coat. The entire bracelet is hand-finished in a combination of satin and polished titanium; this Grand Seiko features the same techniques on its substantial 44.2mm case. The watch wears well on a smaller wrist (i.e. 14-16cm circumference) thanks to the lightweight titanium construction, but the imposing 53mm span between bracelet solid end links ensures that it appears well matched on very large forearms as well. Seiko employs a hard-anodized bezel on the premise that unlike ceramic, the anodized surface cannot fracture and separate from the watch while in use. A sapphire crystal with an inner anti-reflection coating straddles a matte-black lacquered dial base. Seiko uses applied polished indices with its proprietary Lumi Brite luminescent paint. Titanium hour and minute hands sport handsome satin finish and faceting. Gilt-style Seiko and Grand Seiko dial signatures provide welcome chromatic contrast and an upscale appearance. Nevertheless, the face of this Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver is not without its charming quirks. Seiko's selection of broad arrow and cathedral styles for the minute and hour hands, respectively, is an off-beat decision that instantly breaks with Swiss conventions. Moreover, the off-center power reserve scale at seven o'clock is a rare but welcome companion on a diver. While ISO 6426 (established 1996) defines a dive watch as one with a "constant operation" - generally seconds - indicator, knowing that a watch is close to stopping can be just as useful as knowing whether it is stopped; such information could have a bearing on safety if noted immediately before a dive. Seiko graces the SBGA031 with Spring Drive, a flagship technology shared with Seiko Credor models priced in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. As featured in the Spring Drive Diver, the namesake technology is embodied within the automatic caliber 9R65. Far from a machine-made quartz, this is a hybrid system built and adjusted by a watchmaker; its 276 parts and 30 jewels contain an immense amount of traditional mechanical watchmaking. The competitive advantage of Spring Drive derives from Seiko's conversion of spring energy into induced electrical current. The current activates a quartz oscillator, and back-EMF phenomena accelerate or slow a uni-directional regulator wheel that meters the spring energy to the watch's going train. Spring Drive's visual signature long has been the smooth circuit of its seconds hand which moves without detents or steps. And with a rated precision of +/- 15 seconds per month, the system easily upstages traditional chronometers. It's difficult to envision a single target clientele for this Grand Seiko. While recreational divers are a natural match, the watch defies dive class norms with distinctive character, immense technology, and an unusual brand name that remains rare in Western markets. One fact is beyond dispute; divers, engineers, watch nerds, and horological Otaku will find plenty to love. Video and content by Tim Mosso
Innovations from Ball Watch
iW interviewed Jeffrey Hess, President and CEO of Ball Watch USA about their timepieces that continue to push innovation and standards.
A. Lange & Söhne: Silvia Juarez-Henry on U.S Growth in 2016
A. Lange & Söhne North American Brand President, Silvia Juarez-Henry talks to iW about U.S. growth in 2016.
Behind the Bremont Boeing Collection with Nick English
http://www.iwmagazine.com Make sure your seat back and tray table is in the full upright and stowed position, your seat belt securely fastened and all carry-on items securely stowed while watching Bremont Co-Founder, Nick English, Discuss the new Bremont Boeing timepiece.iW sat down with English at BaselWorld this year as he proudly introduced their partnership with Boeing along with a new core collection of watches during BaselWorld. The range of watches is appropriately named, Bremont Boeing, and currently features Bremont Boeing Model 1 and Bremont Boeing Model 247. Both timepieces apply Boeing's expertise in material technology by having a 43mm case design in either Custom 465® Stainless Steel or Boeing aviation-grade Ti-64 titanium. The Custom 465® Stainless Steel is double vacuum-melted, age-hardenable alloy that was developed for the aerospace industry for superior strength, hardness and corrosion resistance. The collaboration with Boeing was an ideal match for Bremont as it syncs with the brand's inspiration for horology and passion for flying.
IW Magazine Hands-On: IWC 2016 Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII and Big Pilot's Watch 5009-12
www.iwmagazine.com At IWC of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, 2016 is the year of the Pilot's Watch. IW Magazine goes hand-on with two of IWC's most discussed new watch releases of SIHH 2016: the IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII and the IWC Big Pilot's Watch, references IW327001 and IW500913, respectively. Join IW Magazine for an overview of the changes and upgrades to these iconic aviator's watches for 2016.
Hublot All Black with Jean-Claude Biver
http://iwmagazine.com iW recently sat down with Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot to discuss the beginning of the All Black concept which, this year, reaches its tenth anniversary. Bold and monochromatic, the All Black concept disrupted the industry, establishing a new trend that spread throughout the luxury industry. This disruption came as no surprise. Since 1980, Hublot has pushed boundaries in the watch world by creating innovative watch collections based on blending new materials or, what they call, the Art of Fusion. Along the way Hublot has had numerous defining moments from designing the first natural rubber strap and creating the Hublot Big Bang, to opening the doors of a second manufacture, Hublot 2. The All Black concept occurred to Biver upon further inspection of what art means in the watchmaking community. “The watchmaking art is an invisible art because usually you have a dial and a case back, how do you see the art?” Biver said. “You cannot see it. You can only see the art if you open the case back.”
Love, Passion and Watchmaking with Jean-Claude Biver
Jean-Claude Biver, Director of the LVMH Group Watch Division, exudes passion. He is a mentor and inspiration for countless individuals in the watch industry. Danny Govberg of Govberg Jewelers and iW Magazine sat down with Biver earlier this year to discuss luxury, motivation and watches. The result is a video you will want to watch from start to finish.
Part II: Why Do You Wear a Watch?
Why do you wear a watch? Although the question seems basic, it has spurred a variety of answers ranging from things as simple as the obvious time telling capabilities to the ability to strike up a conversation. Watch as industry leaders explain what wearing a wristwatch means to them.
Omega's Anti-Magnetic Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss Demonstration
Watch as Michel Willemin of ASULAB demonstrates how magnetism affects timepieces. He made his point at the launch of the ground breaking anti-magnetic Omega Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss, which will be available later this year.
Inside the Greubel Forsey Art Piece 1 with Stephen Forsey
http://iwmagazine.com https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine https://twitter.com/iWMagazine The product of the minds of watchmakers Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey and micro-sculptor Willard Wigan, Greubel Forsey's Art Piece 1 combines the most delicate of contemporary art with the most intricate of watchmaking technology. Watch as Forsey recalls the making of the Art Piece 1. Innovation, design aesthetics and passion comes naturally for Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, Co-Founders of Greubel Forsey. Greubel grew up in France with a Father trained in watchmaking, beginning his studies as a watchmaking at a very young age. By the mid 1980s, he focused on movement design and never looked back. Forsey's beginning when he developed an interest in mechanics through his Father's love of historic cars, and Great Grandfather who was an engineer in aviation. After a chance meeting of a family friend who owned an antique clock shop where he restored the movements, Forsey soon linked his appeal to mechanics with the art of watchmaking. With solid foundations as watchmakers and knowing each other through work and friendship for over 20 years, in 1999 they joined forces to pursue a shared passion for developing mechanical movements in timepieces with greater precision. Each Greubel Forsey timepiece signifies many years of dedicated research to improve precision or to accomplish a nearly tremendous feat.
Video Exclusive: Larry Pettinelli on Patek Philippe, Pilots and Stars
Larry Pettinelli, Patek Philippe’s USA president, recently spoke with iW about new products, watch trends, traditions and designs.
ID2 by Cartier
Check out Cartier's video introduction of their new ID2 watch! To learn more about the ID2, visit http://iwmagazine.com/index.php
IW Magazine Hands-On: IWC 2016 Pilot's Watch Top Gun and Pilot's Watch Top Gun Miramar
www.iwmagazine.com At IWC of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, 2016 is the year of the Pilot's Watch. IW Magazine goes hand-on with two of IWC's most discussed new watch releases of SIHH 2016: the IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun and the IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar, References IW389001 and IW389002, respectively. Join IW Magazine for an overview of the changes and upgrades to these ceramic aviator's watches for 2016. Video and content by Tim Mosso
Explained: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre à Quantième Lunaire
Video and content by Tim Mosso In 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched its Duomètre à Chronographe to universal acclaim. As one of the most original engineering concepts of the post-quartz era, the Duometre immediately joined the ranks of high horology's most discussed novelties of that year's SIHH. But the "Chronographe" model was only the beginning; in 2010, the Duometre became a model line in its own right with the launch of the Duometre à Quantième Lunaire. Unlike the mono pusher "Chronographe," the 42mm rose gold Quantième Lunaire is a cerebral model whose dedication to pure chronometry appeals to the intellect rather than emotion. While the principle of the Dual Wing movement - a second drive train and mainspring barrel for the complication - seemed like a logical, if elaborate, solution to reduced amplitude when running a chronograph, these measures seem like overkill when applied to a simple date and moon phase tandem. The key to JLC's engineering logic lies in the division of duties between the Quantième Lunaire's functions. Rather than splitting the dual drive trains between time and complications as in the chronograph, the Quantième Lunaire engages one mainspring barrel to drive both complications and time display; the second train and power supply serve the balance alone. By dedicating an entire drivetrain and mainspring to the balance, its isochronism and amplitude are liberated from the energy-draining influence of the time, date, and moon phase mechanisms. To optimize the potential of these refinements, Jaeger-LeCoultre endowed the Quantième Lunaire with a unique hacking/synchronization system. When the crown is pulled to the first detent, the flying seconds hand advances to the index at "0," and the seconds hand halts; pulling the crown to the second detent causes a reset hammer to fall on the center wheel cam within the movement. With both foudroyant and seconds hands zeroed, the Quantième Lunaire can be set to the nearest 1/6 of a second against a reference time. Even the zero-reset function carried an additional nuance. When activated for precise setting, the synching mechanism does not halt the balance. In conventional watches with "hacking" or "stop-seconds" functions, the balance halts when the hack is engaged. By keeping the balance in motion throughout the setting process, the Quantième Lunaire avoids the loss of amplitude that results from conventional stop-seconds systems. Beyond chronometry, the movement of the Duometre à Quantième Lunaire features extensive engineering refinements that grant it further distance from conventional movements. Both mainsprings must be wound for the watch to function, and when fully wound, the watch will run for approximately 50 hours. The free sprung balance oscillates at 21,600 VpH, and it employs a large polar moment as a substitute for outright beat rate in order to assure precision. All 42 jewels and 374 parts of this caliber sit amid a set of bridges and plates crafted from "German Silver," or - since Jaeger-LeCoultre resides in French speaking Vallée de Joux, "Maillechort." The material is an alloy of nickel, zinc, and copper. The last is responsible for the soft golden glow that characterizes the calibers of all Duometre models, and it is a deliberate reference to the LeCoultre pocket watch era. As one of the rare calibers that was engineered and designed aesthetically in equal measure, the caliber 381 bears a strong resemblance to the experimental 1881 LeCoultre caliber 19/20 RMSMI that inspired the modern Duometre movement concept. On the dial side, a grained silver base with skeletonized power reserve scales offers a downright baroque take on the basic dual-element layout pioneered by the 2007 chronograph. The dial at 10 o'clock features a moon phase, age of the moon, and date indicator; a pusher corrector on the case flank advances the date, and a dimple corrector between the top lugs advances the moon phase. Hours and minutes are displayed at two o'clock, seconds are anchored at center, and the flying seconds sub dial splits the power reserve scales. All golden elements are 18-karat rose gold to match the case. The skeltonized elements at the base of the dial amount to an overpowering design feature, and Jaeger-LeCoultre diplomatically offers the model with and without the evacuated sections. As of 2016, the family of Duometre models now boasts the Spherotourbillon, Unique Travel Time, "Grande Sonnerie," a choice of four metals, two case sizes, and a number of métiers d’art models. Yet he Duometre à Quantième Lunaire, with more variants than any other model, arguably could be called its model line's mainstay. Unarguably, it remains the purest expression of its manufacture's dedication to precision as an end in itself.
Bell & Ross' Carlos Rosillo Discusses Beginnings and Inspirations
http://iwmagazine.com https://twitter.com/iWMagazine https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine From a visit to the top of the Eiffel Tower or a peek in the Louvre to admire the Mona Lisa, Paris is a city offering rich, cultural experiences. However, as a watch enthusiast the first stop for me was Bell & Ross headquarters. Founded by long-time friends Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, the pair continue to push the luxury watch brand with passion and creativity. "We started in Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris and after growing and growing the business and the company we decided to find a building, one address to have all the services together in the same place and then we looked for our building, our office and we found this building," Rosillo said. Bell & Ross headquarters is situated in the prestigeous 16th district of Paris, occupying an emblematic Parisian building from the Haussmann period. Belamich directed the remodel to suit the needs of the business and outfitted it with the modern style of Bell & Ross. The team in Paris works hand-in-hand with the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland to design and create new and innovative timepieces.
Bulova Strikes Pure Gold
http://iwmagazine.com https://twitter.com/iWMagazine https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine Bulova Creative Director, Thierry Casis, sat down with iW Magazine recently to discuss the brand’s new Bulova Accu-Swiss collection. One of the highlights in the new line is the world’s first 24-Karat gold timepiece forged from 999.9 pure gold of which Casis spoke to the challenges faced during development. The intricate construction of the Accu-Swiss collection is also featured in the new Percheron Temble timepieces. The wristwatches honor the award-winning 1998-1999 Manchester United team. During this time period, Manchester United won the FA Cup, Premier League, and UEFA Champions League. Each member of the Manchester United first team had a unique opportunity to individually customize the grade-5 titanium cases and dials. Some feature personal photos, signatures or jersey numbers. The timepiece is also available to those dedicated ManU fans in two versions, a grade-5 titanium coated with black carbonized titanium and a red team crest or a 316L stainless steel case featuring a blue Manchester United logo on the dial side.
The Raymond Weil Way
http://iwmagazine.com Raymond Weil introduced yet another classic collection to its elegant line-up recently, the Toccata collection. The new line features timeless watches fit, technically and aesthetically, to be passed down for generations. We had the pleasure to meet with Olivier Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil, in his Geneva office to discuss the new Toccata collection as well as the family business. Check out the video to learn more about Raymond Weil, their connection with music and the new Toccata collection. The Toccata collection is available in ladies' and men's versions with diameters ranging 29, 39 and 42mm in steel or yellow gold PVD. The elegant watch houses a Swiss-made quartz movement powering the hour, minutes. In addition, a date aperture is featured at 3 o'clock. Another version in the collection displays a subdial at 6 o'clock with small seconds. The ladies' watches relate to the collection in shape and essence with a sophisticated mother-of-pearl dial 11 sparkling diamonds indicating the hours.
Travel the World with Glashütte Original
iW sits down with CEO of Glashütte Original, Yann Gamard. He talks about the foundation and current state of the brand, including the Senator Cosmopolite timepiece.
Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection
iW recently sat down with Jérôme Lambert, CEO of Montblanc to discuss the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terranum (featured on our February cover) and the latest debuts from the manufacture. Take a minute (or three) to learn about Montblanc’s connection with one of the greatest explorers, Vasco da Gama, and how they honored his legacy with the Heritage Chronométrie Collection and Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication
Jaeger-LeCoultre pays tribute to the origin of time and its link to the sun, moon and stars that abound in the sky with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication. To explain this complex watch in detail, iW spoke with Stéphane Belmont, the Marketing and Creation Executive Director at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Look at this video to learn about this masterpiece of horology emphasizing the savior-faire of the manufacture. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication is a mechanical wonder that miniaturizes the entire universe into a watch for your wrist. An elegant rose gold case houses caliber 945, a hand-wound movement equipped with a flying tourbillon displaying the sidereal time, zodiac calendar function, minute repeater and of course the hours and minutes together highlighting the prowess of the manufacture. The flying tourbillon is captivating to the eyes as it makes one full, counter-clockwise revolution around the dial in sidereal time equating to 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. Sidereal time is a time-keeping system based on Earth’s rotation according to fixed stars where as solar time, used in everyday life, is measured in respect to the sun. Seemingly floating, the flying tourbillon consists of 73 parts and wrapped in a lightweight titanium cage exhibiting the escapement for viewing. For the stargazers to astronomy mavens, the striking dial of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication instantly impresses with a reproduction of sky in the Northern Hemisphere recalling famed constellations such as the Big Dipper, Orion, Polestar and Cassiopeia on a brilliant satin-brushed blue dial. Along the outer edge of the dial, is gold sun that makes a complete rotation around the dial in one year hours indicating the day, month and zodiac sign. While the sleek Dauphine rose gold hands display the hours and minutes in the most elegant fashion. The minute repeater showcase the prowess of this 180 year old manufacture with a exquisite acoustic chime to sound off the hours, quarters and minutes. Thanks to years of research and development, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a crystal cathedral gong system that uses square rather that round sections to provide a larger contact area for the hammer, therefore, allowing for great striking force. Additionally, the minute repeater uses trebuchet hammers, a patent pending mechanism, which drastically increasing the force of the hammers and in turn produce a rich sounds for the time. The audio time can be instantly enjoyed by engaging the ergonomic slide along the side of the rose gold case and viewed through the sapphire case back. The esteemed manufacture pays tribute to generations of watchmakers guided by the galaxy above to create the origins of time measurement with this celestial timepiece.
Inside the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
http://iwmagazine.com https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine https://twitter.com/iWMagazine http://flpbd.it/iw Every year since 2002, Audemars Piguet has produced inventive timepieces to the Royal Oak Concept collection. The ever-evolving collection was originally created as tribute to the 30th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Collection and its designer, Gerald Genta. Early this year, Audemars Piquet introduced the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon, a timepiece that holds true to the Maison's 135 years of expertise while incorporating bold design and innovative uses of materials. The timepiece integrates white ceramic in the bezel, push pieces and crown. What's more, the bright white ceramic is used in its calibre 2930 powerhouse as the upper bridge, creating a striking, balanced design framing the tourbillon carriage and the second GMT time-zone display. The Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring a 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time zone 'GMT' display. Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth's gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time. In addition, the GMT display provides instant reading of second time zone and is adjusted using a push piece at 4 o'clock. The 12-hour second timezone indication is comprised of two superimposed discs; the first, completes one turn in 12-hours and the second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours.
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee
It is no exaggeration to say that the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee represents the investment of the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture’s entire expertise in a single watch. Unveiled at SIHH 2013 to mark the maison’s 180th anniversary, the Gyrotourbillon 3 is nothing less than a showcase of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house mastery of rare arts, engineering muscle, and boundless imagination. In commercial terms – especially in this fast-paced era of marketing – an eternity separates the 2013 Geneva Salon of High Horology from the present moment. Pre-SIHH 2017 releases are in full swing, and a collection of thoughts regarding a years-old model, no matter how scintillating, may seem curious. But the gestation of grand complications moves on its own time scale, and enthusiasts with realistic designs on the 75-unit run of the Gyrotourbillon 3 only now are beginning to take delivery; for one week, iW Magazine counted itself among the fortunate few. Through a week of on-the-wrist trials, iW Magazine strove to test Jaeger-LeCoultre’s bold assertion that the roughly $540,000 US Gyrotourbillon 3 is as viable a “daily driver” as the brand’s bread-and-butter steel Master models. An introduction of the Gyrotourbillon 3 would be remiss to exclude a measure of historical context. The watch is the follow-up to the 2008 Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2, itself a sequel to the 2004 Gyrotourbillon. All three watches are the result of work by then-JLC engineer/watchmaker Eric Coudray. Although neither the first poly-axial tourbillon nor the only ones available in the current market, each of the Gyrotourbillon watches pushed the boundaries of what JLC could accomplish, and the central tenet of real-world durability helped to set these watches apart from their few peers. Each of the Gyrotourbillon models belongs to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Mechanica line of engineering exceptions; the Gyro 3 is the tenth of this series that commenced with the original Gyrotourbillon. Each Gyrotourbillon 3 is built around its caliber 176 manually wound movement. The design of the watch opens its dial to minimize the civil time display in the service of aesthetic impact. At six o’clock, the gyrations of the flying tourbillon present a mesmerizing vision of grace and complexity. Two arcs are traced simultaneously; one circuit requites sixty seconds, and the other requires 24. Beyond visual theatrics, the goal of this arrangement is precision. By adding additional orientations with respect to gravity, Jaeger-LeCoultre strives to recapture the equalizing effect on rate that Abraham Louis Breguet achieved with his original single-axis pocket watch tourbillon of 1795. Within the cage, the 14-karat blued-gold balance oscillates at a beat rate of 21,600 VpH rate. Gyrations notwithstanding, the balance assembly itself of is a source of spectacle thanks to a spherical hairspring – the wristwatch industry’s first. While previous Jaeger-LeCoultre tourbillon cages employed titanium to minimize their mass, the Gyrotourbillon employs even lighter – and more challenging to finish - aluminum alloys. Despite the size and complexity of the tourbillon assembly, a large mainspring barrel endows the caliber 176 with a practical power reserve of 48 hours. By itself, the Gyrotourbillon could have anchored this anniversary model with no sense of lost opportunity or unfulfilled purpose. But Jaeger-LeCoultre engineers decided to add a monopusher chronograph with instantaneous-jump digital minutes. Of the 592 parts that comprise the caliber, approximately 200 are dedicated to the chronograph. The digital minutes display, which was launched first on the Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 of 2010, dominates the sunburst silver sub-dial at nine o’clock. A traditional column wheel function selector with black-polished cap sits above the chronograph display; a vertical clutch engagement starts the chronograph without jump, stops its without stagger, and allows continuous running of the mechanism without additional wear on the movement. Beneath the chronograph dial, the levers of the minute jumper can be seen inaction when the device is engaged.
Robo Chrono: Swatch Sistem51 Sistem Blue Showcase and Perspective
In 2013, Swatch Group stunned the crowds at Baselworld with a product launch that literally caused worlds to collide: the Swatch Sistem51. Built and adjusted entirely by robots, the Sistem51 merged the technology of Swatch's bedrock "fashion watch" brand with the automatic mechanical signature of the Group's flagship luxury brands. With 51 movement parts, 19 pivot jewels, five modules, and only one (!) screw, the Sistem51's ETA caliber C10111 flew in the face of convention within the conservative domain of mechanical watchmaking. The Sistem51 Sistem Blue (ref. SUTS401) featured herein was one of the launch models when the watch began to reach consumers in the fall of 2013 (Europe) and mid 2014 (North America). Its 42mm translucent blue plastic case measures 13.5mm thick and 50.5mm from lug-to-lug. 30M/3ATM water resistance provides protection agains splashes only and precludes waterborne use. The dial features a constellation motif anchored by five red "stars" the mark the location of pivot jewels in the movement below the dial itself. Luminescence is provided for access to the time in reduced or zero-light conditions. A monotone date disc sits at three o'clock, and it can be advanced for corrections with a quick set function that engages in the second crown position. Technically, the ETA caliber C10111 is a unique case. While most mechanical watch movements employ dozens of screws to affix bridges, plates, levers, and to enable adjustment, the C10111 is assembled - permanently - with soldering of all five of the caliber's primary modules. The balance assembly is a case study in minimalism and cost-effective engineering. A full balance bridge provides a measure of shock protection; exceptionally, the hairspring is affixed to the balance on one end and the base plate of the movement on its other extremity. In a fairly direct nod to the 1970s Tissot Astrolon plastic calibers 2250 and 2270, the escape wheel and anchor are molded from a synthetic polymer and bereft of metal and pallet stones. However, the use of ARCAP alloy in the bridges and plate is a eyebrow-raising distinction. This anti-magnetic metal is better known as the basis of calibers issued by URWERK in its avant grade output and Corum in its Ti-Bridge tourbillons. The ETA Caliber C10111 runs at a 21,600 VpH beat rate; the slightly slower-than-standard rate and large mainspring barrel enable the automatic watch to store up to 90 hours of power reserve when fully-energized. Swatch's robot assembly line regulates the Sistem51's movement by dynamically poising the balance with lasers that remove material from the balance until it runs to specified tolerances. Once regulated, the movement is sealed into the case for life. Structural adhesive secures both the acrylic crystal over the dial and its opposite number on the display caseback. Ultimately, the Sistem51 is a watch that engenders STRONG feelings. For the most part, traditional watch enthusiasts have embraced it with cautious enthusiasm. As an alternative to Swatch's more common quartz calibers, it appeals to traditionalists, and most regard the Sistem51 as an ideal gateway to propel younger audiences to the world of mechanical watches. Nevertheless, enthusiast trepidation arises from the use of automation in every phase of the Sistem51's production, the removal of human hands and a watchmaker's loupe, the reduction of traditional materials and workmanship in the movement, and the potential for these techniques to slither upmarket into the world of luxury watches. Three-and-a-half years after its launch, one fact about the Swatch Sistem51 remains beyond dispute; this watch gets people talking. -Tim Mosso
Technically Speaking with Alpina
We speak to Guido Benedini, CEO of Alpina to find out more about the company's new innovations in the Horological Smartwatch and the Alpina 4 Flyback Chronograph. Get the full story: http://iwmagazine.com/?p=43188
Guy Semon Presents the TAG Heuer Mikrogirder 1/2000th
Guy Semon presents the Mikrograph, Mikrotimer and Mikrogirder
Antoine Martin Slow Runner
Antoine Martin's Slow Runner beats with an unbelievably leisurely frequency of 7,200 beats per hour, or just one hertz-- less than half as fast as the slowest-running designs currently available anywhere. Watchmaker Matin Braun designed this 24mm balance to showcase his invitation to "Take life a little easier."
Hands-On: Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator 1-58-04-04-04-04
Glashütte Original is German, and the 171 year-old firm offers its chronometers with a certification from the domestic Deutsche Kalibrierdienst (DKD) to hammer-home the point. The Senator Chronometer Regulator appeals to contrarians with a combination of style and substance that's as unique as its chronometer LMET/SLME certificate. G.O. commenced its recent run of Teutonic chronometers with the 2009 Baselworld launch of the Senator Chronometer and its manufacture "Caliber 58." In 2013, the subject of this feature, the Senator Chronometer, bowed as a anachronistic variation on the original concept. Still bearing the blessing of the DKD, the Chronometer Regulator's separate hours, minutes, and seconds dials pays deference to the "regulator" or "mother" clocks used by past watchmakers to set precisely those timepieces in service centers. The 42mm white gold case of the Regulator features an engaging combination of satin and polished surfaces that articulate its mass of precious metal. While larger than a traditional 35-38mm dress watch, the Chronometer Regulator wears its mass with class, and a compact 12mm thickness ensures viability within the higher confines of dress sleeves or formal cuffs. The lugs diminish with an elegant taper, and a subtle step to the bezel provides welcome nuance. Glashütte Original employs a unique dial finishing method variously described by the manufacture as satin varnish and lacquer, but each completed dial executed in this style requires multiple passes of the lacquer appliqué in order to achieve the final granular effect. Of note, the use of lacquer to attain a textured matte finish is a rare approach to dial craft scarcely seen outside of the Glashütte Original product line. The regulator dial accommodates three separate time displays, a power reserve at three o'clock, a "panoramic" date, Arabic, and Roman numerals - without appearing crowded. Each of the sub registers for the time displays features a galvanized set of black calibrations, and the cobalt blue hands provide a graceful measure of relief from the dominant grayscale scheme of the watch. Beneath the dial, the Senator Chronometer Regulator employs a variation on the in-house caliber 58 seen on the original 2009 model. This iteration, dubbed GUB 58-04, retains the base caliber's 44-hour power reserve, 4Hz beat, and unique "zero reset" synchronization feature. The latter deserves special mention. Glashütte Original product planners reasoned that a chronometer-grade watch should be simple to set with precision. The Chronometer Regulator employs a hacking (stop seconds) mechanism in tandem with a system that pegs the seconds hand to "0" and instantly advances them minute hand precisely to the next whole minute index on the dial. Thusly synched, the balance can be released as soon as the user's reference timer crosses the threshold of the next whole minute. Function aside, Glashütte's artisans distinguish the caliber 58-04 with a dazzling array of esthetic flourishes. Most, elements, including the hand-engraved balance cock, Glashutte stripes, 3/4-style bridge, and train jewels set in screw-fixed gold chatons, are loving tributes to Glashütte Original's pre-WWII roots as a pocket watch specialist. A swan's neck fine-adjustment regulator, polished escape wheel cover, and the skeletonized planetary reduction gear over the mainspring barrel enhance the Chronometer Regulator's sense of occasion and craft input. Put simply, it's evident that a (skilled) human being was here; few creative measures mean more to fervent watch collectors. And the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator deserves the attention of collectors. While life amid the mammoths of the Swatch Group can cause an occasional eclipse of its smaller members, quality ultimately asserts itself in the hearts and minds of those who venture beyond the mai watch with character and substance. The proudly German Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator is made for that breed of collector.
Vacheron Constantin Tour
International Watch magazine's Elizabeth Doerr recently toured haute horlogerie house Vacheron Constantin.
The Modern Watch: Creations by ArtyA
iW Magazine sat down with the founder and CEO of ArtyA, Yvan Arpa. We discussed his history in the watch industry and his new pieces for his company.
Oris' Ulrich Herzog on the Big Crown, Utility and Design
http://iwmagazine.com https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine?ref=hl https://twitter.com/iWMagazine Earlier this year, iW Managing Editor / Swiss Correspondent, Nola Martin, caught up with Chairman and CEO of Oris, Ulrich Herzog. Here, Herzog discussed Oris' beginnings including the introduction of one of the brand's most popular collections, the Big Crown. Herzog also described the design process in creating an Oris timepiece, where professional divers, pilots and drivers are consulted to ensure appropriate functionality and ergonomic fit. Over the summer, Martin took to the skies with Oris at the first annual Aviators Academy in the Swiss Alps. In June, I was privy to Oris' first annual Aviators Academy at the Ambri airfield, located in the middle of the Swiss Alps. A former Swiss Air force airbase, the airfield was built during WWII and is still considered one of the rockiest airports of the Airforce with a 7,000 ft. runway surrounded by 8,000 ft. mountains. The Academy hosted pilots from Switzerland, Germany, France and Italy who participated in all-things-aviation. I was lucky enough to get a front-row seat in the cockpit to witness the action and test out the Oris Big Crown Timer, a day I won't soon forget. My adventure began in my Oris personalized flight suit embroidered with my name strutting around the airfield with a crew of future pilots, styled circa "Top Gun."  A fleet of jets lined the runway including a Hawker Hunter, De Havilland Vampire, Pilatus PC7 Turbo Trainer, Antonov AN 2, Pilatus P3 and a Boeing Stearman.  It was after seeing this, that my nerves began to build in anticipating the big day ahead of me.
Raymond Weil "Precision is my Inspiration"
Raymond Weil recently introduced a microsite and movie dedicated to the craftsmanship of their Maestro Phase De Lune Semainier. The film follows the timepiece's creation from inspiration and initial sketches to its finality on the wrist.
Glashütte Original Senator Observer Hands-On
www.iwmagazine.com http://www.glashuette-original.com/ IW Magazine Editorial Director Tim Mosso goes hands-on with Glashütte Original's 2015 Baselworld novelty, the Senator Observer. Inspired by the Saxon brand's nineteenth and early twentieth century marine chronometers or "observation watches," the Senator Observer celebrates the spirit of its historic forebears with a thoroughly modern standard of fit, finish, and refinement. The Glashütte Original Senator Observer is a 44mm stainless steel automatic timepieces whose dial recalls the deck clocks once built for precise maritime navigation. A power reserve scale at three o'clock keeps the user apprised of the time remaining in the caliber 100's power reserve of 55 hours. The entire dial - hands, Arabic numerals, and sub-dials - features brilliant nighttime illumination thanks to Super LumiNova luminescent paint. See this and other premier luxury watches on our website, www.iwmagazine.com. Glashütte Original showcases its entire lineup of watches at www.Glashutte-Original.com
Sitting Down with Marc Hayek, Pres./CEO of Breguet, Blancpain & Jaquet Droz
http://www.iwmagazine.com At BaselWorld 2014 Breguet introduced, among other models, the final version of the Classique Tourbillon extra-plat automatique (5377). International Watch sat down with Marc A. Hayek, President & CEO of Breguet, Blancpain and Jaquet Droz, to discuss how the ultra-thin platinum watch's unusual peripheral rotor, silicon components and long, 90-hour power reserve were tested over the past year (in the atelier and on Mr. Hayek's wrist) before it was released at this year's show. Is it difficult to reconcile the classical profile, dials and cases of today's Breguet with the high-tech caliber inside? Not at all, he says. Breguet himself would likely have done similar high-tech research to develop such a piece, he adds, as his namesake company does today. Breguet continues to combine such research with handcrafted dial and casemaking. The company still is in one of the few manufacturers that does all its engine-turned dial engravings by hand. In fact Breguet recently expanded its workshops at L'Orient to make room in its workshops for additional artisans. Watch our interview here for more of Marc Hayek at BaselWorld 2014.
Zenith: Manufacturing a Zenith Wristwatch in a Minute by Minute Exclusive
Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour discusses the creation of a Zenith timepiece.
175 Years of Patek Philippe with CEO Thierry Stern
http://iwmagazine.com International Watch speaks with Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who recently visited Govberg Jewelers in Philadelphia and spent an evening there with Patek Philippe collectors. Stern, whose family has owned Patek Philippe since 1932, discusses why U.S. collectors are important to Patek Philippe and recalls his days in the United States during visits here with his father. What will he tell us about Patek Philippe's 175th anniversary this year? Watch our interview to find out.
Arnold & Son's CTB, DSTB and TBR
This year, Arnold & Son announced a range of timepieces during BaselWorld including the DSTB -- Dial Side True Beat, DTE - Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time, CTB -- Chronograph True Beat, and the TBR - True Beat Retrograde which are categorized in the Royal collection plus the TEC1 -- Tourbillon Chronograph in the Instruments collection. Team iW had the chance to sit down with Dr. Sébastien Chaulmontet, Arnold & Son's head of movement development, to discuss the new BaselWorld introductions and as well as how the spirit of Arnold & Son is incorporated into today's contemporary collections from the manufacture. Chaulmontet described the vision of Arnold & Son and the importance of taking inspiration, rather than direct interpretation. "Basically the way we work is to study what he [the watchmaker] did and we try to take the essence and make something modern. We really try not to copy his work because you cannot copy the master, it is something that would not make sense today and would not feel right." Check out this video as Chaulmontet demonstrates the new and impressive CTB, DSTB and TBR from Arnold & Son.
Stephen Forsey on 10 Years of Greubel Forsey
http://iwmagazine.com https://twitter.com/iWMagazine https://www.facebook.com/iwmagazine http://instagram.com/iwmagazine/ A little over ten years ago watchmakers Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey spoke to gathered watch press (including myself), consumers and other watchmakers in a modest-sized, back-hall booth at Baselworld. They were launching their first watch, the Double Tourbillion 30°, under their new brand Greubel Forsey. As founders of CompliTime, a La Chaux-de-Fonds company that had been making movements for top watch brands for three years, Greubel and Forsey were already known to a few enthusiasts of complicated watches, especially those who followed their earlier work at famed movement developer Renaud & Papi. But in 2004, both men made horological headlines in iW and every other watch publication worldwide with the Double Tourbillon 30°, a remarkable watch that features one tourbillon carriage rotating once per minute and inclined at 30° inside another carriage which is rotating every four minutes. Very few people had actually seen any sort of multiple-axis anything in a watch prior to 2004, though a few existed, notably from Thomas Prescher, Anthony Randall and Richard Good (in clocks), and of course Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its own Gyrotourbillon in 2004. Their debut at Baselworld put Greubel-Forsey on the horological map for collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. In 2006 the company received investment from Richemont (a twenty-percent share) and the company combined its research and production into new headquarters in a dramatically renovated farmhouse in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which it opened in 2009. The company moved to show its debuts at the SIHH in Geneva in 2009 alongside the other Richemont-related watch brands. Today, with about 100 employees, Greubel Forsey makes fewer than 100 watches each year and has only created about 900 individual pieces since its founding ten years ago. On the following pages, Stephen Forsey explains how Greubel Forsey created the globe on its much-heralded GMT and discusses the role of hand finishing at his company.